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Bristol , United Kingdom
Poet and poetry facilitator. Neurodishevelled. My sixth poetry collection, Love the Albatross, is available from Indigo Dreams or directly from me.
Showing posts with label Muchelney. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Muchelney. Show all posts

Tuesday, 6 August 2024

Arthur (and Cwtch) in Avalon

Off to Glastonbury today to visit my friend, Jan. Jan and her family moved to Glastonbury from Holt in Wiltshire some years ago, but hadn't yet made it to Muchelney with its stunning church, so that's where we went.

The right and proper way to approach Muchelney - unless the Levels have flooded and you need a boat - is on foot, so Jan parked in Langport and we set out along the River Parrett. 


Crossing Huish bridge


The confluence of the Rivers Parrett and Yeo 


Jan with Cwtch and her dog, Arthur


Looking ahead to Muchelney and its church tower


On Law Lane bridge


We had a picnic in the porch of the church, where it was cool and shady for both us and the dogs ... 


... with a glimpse inside of why I'd insisted to Jan we needed to visit.

First, though ... 


'Jan's brought chicken ... she has, Mam! ... Chicken!'

And inside the church, the sight - even though I've been there several times before - that always makes me feel a bit weepy. 


Glorious bare-breasted angels dating from the early 17th century



I can never quite fathom how they survived the depradations of the Civil Wars. Many the Levels were flooded, and Muchelney an island, when the iconoclasts were in the neighbourhood. 


Mediaeval floor tiles


As we passed Muchelney Abbey ... 


... and the Priest's House, with its - as I recall - wonderful Cotswold Arts and Crafts furniture by Ernest Gimson and the Barnsleys, I realised I perhaps need to revisit (whisper it) sans chienne


Then back up the Parrett to Langport, the church tower on the horizon now St Mary's, Langport.


Knowing me, knowing you ... Aha!


Handsome King Arthur


I think this might be a heron feather


Tawny owl feathers from the resident in Jan's barn

Friday, 24 July 2015

Apotropaios: Soul Outlines

Last week came the partial unravelling of a mystery that has foxed me ever since May 2011, when Dru and I visited St Michael's, Dundry, which, as its dedication suggests, perches high on Dundry Hill overlooking Bristol.


This is Dru's photo of an altar tomb dating from the 1730s in the churchyard. If you look to the right hand side you can see that there are outlines of shoes - or rather, soles - on the slab.  But why, dammit, why?

We pondered long and hard. Perhaps a lover had cut them while he was waiting for his sweetheart to emerge from evensong.  Except he'd have opted for a heart and initials, wouldn't he? 

Maybe it's a dancing lesson, Dru said. It's interrupted when father comes home from the quarry - there's his hobmail boot on the threshold, see?  

No, it's the footprints of a mother and her children dancing on Father's grave, I concluded.  And I wrote a rather poor poem and Dru drew a picture for a putative illustrated book of local poems that never got any further than that.  

I did make sporadic, rather lethargic attempts to find out a little more. 'Was it a cement top to the tomb?' asked David Williams, a then inhabitant of the village. 'Could they be prints rather than carvings?' But no, it was definitely the local yellow oolitic limestone that goes by the name of Dundry stone.  

And that was that until some desultory browsing on Facebook last week uncovered this photo taken in the porch of St Gile's Church, Bredon in Worcestershire in a group called Apotropaios.


Well, I knew about the practice of concealing (mainly well-worn) shoes in buildings since at least the early modern period, as magic charms to ward off evil and/or fertility charms, but I hadn't associated this with carved outlines or even realised that the examples at Dundry were anything more than an isolated phenomenon. 

There was more. A friend of Dru's, Philip Watson, posted these from the roof of St Peter and St Paul at Mucheleney, with the hasty postscript that he hadn't been up there for nefarious purposes.  


I tried a spot more googling.  June Swan, former keeper of the shoe and boot collection at Northampton Museum, writes 'Shoe and sole outlines may be found scratched on buildings and other structures, which confirms the significance of the shoe shape' but offers no further information or explanation.  

I found further examples in the form of an outline of  what looks like a matching pair of shoes carved into the lead on the roof of St Michael and All Angels in Edmondthorpe in Leicestershire.  Also in the graveyard at St Stephen's Chapel, which forms part of the ruins of Bordesley Abbey, Redditch, where the Curator believes them to be either acts of vandalism or an indication of profession, such as cobbler. Meanwhile the blogger who posted the photos suggests that they might be connected with the custom of giving clothes shoes to the poor by the monks - although this wouldn't account for other examples elsewhere, and in a non-monasterial setting.  

All of which poses more questions than it answers - for example, are they always associated with religious buildings? - and leaves me more intrigued than ever by these vestiges of lost souls.  


20th August 2015

Dru Marland has drawn another example to my attention, at St Melangell's Church in Welshpool. Again, locals seem to be blaming cobblers! 


5th March 2016

A shoe at St Mary's in Trostan, Suffolk, together with the head of a demon.

26th August 2016

Spotted these at the back of the redundant Church of St James of Compostela in Cameley. The guide to the Church merely describes these as 'three pieces of lead from the roof, where presumably those who laid or repaired it autographed it with their footprints and the dates 1733, 1757 and 1795.' 

Wednesday, 1 May 2013

Topsy Turvy in Somerset and Dorset

Still coughing violently, the invalid was wheeled into the sun today for a May Day Out, on the grounds that a change of scene would do her good.  And it was lovely in an exhausting and really very strange sort of way, not least because this is the first May Day I ever recall with no may whatsoever. And how curious it is to see blackthorn blossoming mightily while other trees are coming into leaf. Everything's topsy turvy this Beltane. 


Elevenses in Somerton.  I think it must be at least 40 years since I was last here and it hasn't changed.






Next stop the Church of St Peter and St Paul in Muchelney to revisit the spectacular angel roof.  













A beautiful broken mid 18th century tombstone at Mucheleny.  

Then on to the Church of Saint Michael at East Coker.  One obvious change since my last visit was the addition to T S Eliot's memorial slab of the name of his widow, Valerie who died last November.

I sat in the churchyard, read 'East Coker' from Four Quartets, realised that T S did in fact seem to be addressing me directly, and grizzled a bit, not because of being unhappy but rather the opposite.  I am so fortunate even when I am coughing my guts up.

Last stop was over the border in Dorset, at Cerne Abbas, where I'd never been before.  And yes, the giant was as winsome as I'd expected, and May Day the perfect day to meet him ...







  













Tuesday, 24 July 2012

To Martock, to Martock ...

My mission today - which I did decide to accept - was to drive my parents and Auntie Mollie to see my Uncle Noel who lives in Shepton Beauchamp in deepest, darkest Somerset (combined ages 342).  

A strange thing happens to my car when my relatives get in it.  It is fuelled by the hot air emanating from my mother and her sister in the back, whilst my dad takes it upon himself to tell me where I should park while he pops into Lidl to buy his morning paper and which lane I should be in all the way down the motorway.  No matter, we all got there without me throttling any of them and in time for coffee before we went to the pub in nearby Dinnington, called Dinnington Docks (although it's a good fifteen miles from the coast) and serving Burrow Hill cider, whoop whoop.


I managed to peel my charges away in time for a quick dash to Martock to look at the mediaeval Church of All Saints.  I'd been informed that it was even more stunning than my very favourite
Mucheleny Church with the norty angels painted all over the roof.  It wasn't, but I was still glad that I got to see it. 

A few highlights, then ...


The hearse

Big Dragon is watching you

The organ (formerly in Wells Cathedral)









Auntie Mollie has gone for gold












My father wearing a jumper in 25˚C+ heat
  My mother
The coloured glass in the church was smashed during the civil war when troops and horses were billeted in the church.  The statues in the clerestory niches were also destroyed.  There are paintings of saints there now.  

The 15th century font




Detail of the oak Angel Roof completed in 1513  





The yew walk in the churchyard


The 15th century tower