The Severn tunnel being shut for its annual maintenance - and with the replacement bus service leaving Bristol too late in the morning and returning too early in the afternoon to accommodate anyone who works for a living - I've girded my lions for two weeks (Wednesday to Friday) of to-ing and fro-ing to Cardiff to drop the Northerner off and pick him up. The plan - as every year - was to stay there during the day and walk Cwtch somewhere interesting, but on Wednesday and Thursday this last week the temperature reached over 30°C, which is way too hot to be out all day with a dog.
About Me
- Deborah Harvey Poetry
- Bristol , United Kingdom
- Poet and poetry facilitator. Neurodishevelled. My sixth poetry collection, Love the Albatross, is available from Indigo Dreams or directly from me.
Showing posts with label Ogmore-by-Sea. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ogmore-by-Sea. Show all posts
Saturday, 30 May 2026
Return to Ogmore
But Friday was several degrees cooler, so after our morning chauffeuring stint ended, Cwtch and I headed for one of our favourite places, Ogmore-by-Sea.
Having parked in the beach car park, we set off along the coast in a south-easterly direction towards Southerndown. The landscape was very familiar, as Cwtch and I had walked a short way further along this part of the coast in October 2023 - in fact, the south-easternmost point of our route touched the north-westernmost point of that earlier walk.
a female stonechat
We turned away from the coast up a dry valley to a road; then, just past West Farm Coastal Retreat, our route took us up a lovely walled bridle path that was full of flowers ...
... to a lane called Heol y Mynydd, which in turn led to an area of common land, off which we diverted into a dry - and very sandy - glacial valley skirting the southern edge of Ogmore Down.
This part of the valley has the name Pant Mari Flanders, allegedly after one of several Flemish settlers who came here in the Middle Ages, having either fled religious persecution or been enticed to move here from the Low Countries with promises of rich farmland. The cowl around this well dates from this time.
Top row: thrift and bird's-foot-trefoil; red clover; bristly hawksbeard; slender thistles
Middle row: poppy; an escaped snapdragon; red campion; dog roses, one with a thick-legged flower beetle
Bottom row: spiny sowthistle; foxgloves; rough hawkbit; scurvy grass
Eventually we reached the River Ogmore, also very familiar from previous visits, and headed for the sea.
Looking back up the river ...
... and across to Merthyr Mawr warren and Porthcawl
Back on the beach, Cwtch very bravely went for a walk but only because I rolled up my trousers and went in first.
The Ride of the Valkyries
Modest treasure
Tuesday, 9 July 2024
The Castles of Ogmore and Candleston
It was off to the polling station first thing on Thursday ...
... and then on to Cardiff, to drop The Northerner at work, not because of a strike this time, but because the Severn Tunnel is closed for repair/maintenance and Network Rail haven't seen fit to lay on any replacement coach services, so train journeys between the Welsh capital and Bristol are necessarily via Gloucester and several times longer than usual.
Rather than shuttling between the two cities in the morning and then back again in the afternoon, Cwtch and I drove on to Ogmore. Cwtch got very excited as we turned into the lane that runs down to the castle; I swear she recognised it from our previous visit.
Rather than shuttling between the two cities in the morning and then back again in the afternoon, Cwtch and I drove on to Ogmore. Cwtch got very excited as we turned into the lane that runs down to the castle; I swear she recognised it from our previous visit.
This time I intended to walk to Candleston Castle and the back of Merthyr Mawr Warren, which I visited with Son the Younger and our old collie, Ted, back in 2019. This meant braving the long line of stepping stones across the River Ewenny - no mean feat with a collie who doesn't care for water.
I unclipped her retractable lead - I'm not a complete idiot - and started across them but Cwtch remained paw deep in water and didn't follow. So I went back to the beginning, encouraged her onto the first stone and set off again. This time she pushed past to lead the way; that is, until she got to a pair of stones with a slightly wider gap than the rest and stopped dead in her tracks. I went ahead at this point, and for the rest of the crossing, could feel her nose pressed against the back of my leg, so close was she. But she did it. Hooray for the brave little collie!
I unclipped her retractable lead - I'm not a complete idiot - and started across them but Cwtch remained paw deep in water and didn't follow. So I went back to the beginning, encouraged her onto the first stone and set off again. This time she pushed past to lead the way; that is, until she got to a pair of stones with a slightly wider gap than the rest and stopped dead in her tracks. I went ahead at this point, and for the rest of the crossing, could feel her nose pressed against the back of my leg, so close was she. But she did it. Hooray for the brave little collie!
On the far side, further challenges for a small collie to contend with, though my inner seven-year-old was in heaven. Horses!
Looking back across the River Ewenny to Ogmore Castle
Our next obstacle was the River Ogmore, crossed by a suspended footbridge, which was easier for Cwtch to contemplate than the stepping stones, but still wobbled disconcertingly.
River Ogmore
We soon reached the picturesque village of Merthyr Mawr with its thatched cottages.
Our route took us up over a couple of fields. At this point, the guide book said the track can get overgrown and hard to follow. Actually, it was the directions that foxed me: they didn't seem to bear any resemblance to what I could see in front of me. With time tight, I decided I couldn't keep making forays in different directions in the hope I'd find another waymark that proved we were heading in the right direction, so I reluctantly retraced our steps down the hill.
pink hogweed
meadowsweet
a thrush egg
Back at the village I headed for the Church of St Teilo, which looked very neat in its very tidy churchyard - although a notice informed people who might think it not tidy enough that some nettles had been left uncut for Peacock, Red Admiral and Small Tortoiseshell butterflies.
The current church building is Victorian, in the Gothic Revival style. It looks great but being comparatively modern, lacks much in the way of quirk ...
... and the preaching cross in the churchyard is also mediaeval.
And then, on the north side of the churchyard, I found - what joy! - this hut housing a crowd of inscribed and carved early mediaeval pillars, slabs and crosses.
They were all found locally, and it's really good this is where they've stayed, but it would wonderful if they had more substantial housing, with user-friendly interpretation boards. Of course with a modern church, there's no spare chapel going begging, like the Galilee Chapel at St Illtyd's in Llantwit Major, which houses that church's collection of ancient Celtic crosses.
On then, past barley fields fringed with Himalayan balsam and clumps of rough chervil, to the privately-run car park at Merthyr Mawr Warren, where we soon located Candleston Castle, despite the lack of maps and/or information boards there (apart from Have You Paid Your Parking Fee notices at every path leading out of it).
The castle - a fortified manor house - was built in the 14th century and fell into ruin in the 19th. Even in bright sunlight it was atmospheric.
We were now at the back of the dune system ...
... and the vegetation changed accordingly: here, restharrow and common stork's bill.
I lacked the energy, though, to climb this dune - it's steeper than it looks - for a view of ... more dunes, probably, so we walked the mile or so back to the village and recrossed the River Ogmore via the footbridge.
The river is tidal here and the level lower than before, but even so, I decided asking Cwtch to cross a long stretch of stepping stones for a second time in one day might be pushing my luck, so we sought out the concrete footbridge that crosses the River Ewenny further upstream.
Hemlock Water Dropwort lining the banks
Back at Ogmore Castle car park, we watched sand martins and one or two swallows dip and curve over the Ewenny before heading back to Cardiff, then Bristol and a long night watching Tory ministers - and one former Prime Minister - lose their seats. A good day!
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