About Me

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Bristol , United Kingdom
Poet and poetry facilitator. Neurodishevelled. My sixth poetry collection, Love the Albatross, is available from Indigo Dreams or directly from me.
Showing posts with label King Henry VII. Show all posts
Showing posts with label King Henry VII. Show all posts

Saturday, 1 November 2025

Pilgrims, Doppelgängers and the Battle of Royate Hill

It being half term, I decided to visit a couple of places in Bristol I'd never been to before. It's not hard to find such places in South Bristol,where I only really venture for poetry events or to walk the dog at Ashton Court or Arnos Vale cemetery, and Brislington Brook as it meanders through Nightingale Valley and St Anne's Woods on its way to the River Avon had been on my list of local places to visit for years. 


It was a lovely sunny morning and Cwtch was basking in the delight of being somewhere new. 


harlequin ladybird



Brislington brook rises on the northern slope of Maes Knoll, a few miles to the south. It never gets as big as its north Bristol cousins, the Rivers Frome and Trym, all of which eventually decant their waters into the River Avon, but its valley is a lovely spot.



A communication line of tree roots


Where Nightingale Valley assumes the name of St Anne's Woods, I paused on the railway bridge to look at the goods train beneath it. The railway was built in 1840 by Brunel and splits the valley in two. The line ends at Paddington. 

After negotiating Newbridge Road, we entered the woods again. There was earlier traffic here, of a different variety: namely, that of pilgrims, coming to visit the chapel and sacred well dedicated to Anne, the patron saint of sailors. 

Of the chapel, with its thirty-two model ships left as offerings, there's no sign, though it was once important enough to be the subject of a visit by King Henry VII. Ironically, its demise was instigated by his son during the Reformation. 

The well's still there, though, surrounded by railings, though there was only a drop of water in there when we visited, and signs that someone tried to use it as a barbecue pit during the long hot summer. A nearby tree had some faded clouties tied to it. 






On our way back towards the upper stretch of Nightingale Valley, I saw my father on the bridge over the railway. At first, he was looking down at the train beneath it; then he started pacing up and down as if he was waiting for someone - neither activity particularly odd, except that he died nearly eight years ago.

The thought occurred to me that maybe the person he was waiting for was me, so I held back until he disappeared down a side street. Getting close enough to see it wasn’t my father would have been weird; getting close enough to see it was, something else altogether.


a one-legged apple tree


the packhorse bridge




There are several impressive trees in these woods, but none so strange as this London plane, the hollow trunk of which has been bricked up, apparently to stop people lighting fires inside it. 

My second new place to visit was Royate Hill nature reserve in Eastville, which lies north of the River Avon. Our walk, though, started somewhere familiar, namely, Greenbank cemetery in Easton, which was brilliant with foliage despite the overcast weather.




Three headstones, close each other and with angels as security, commemorating children who died between the ages of 12 and 18 in the 1930s and 40s



Just alongside an entrance at the northern edge of the cemetery, there's a flight of steps that leads up to the disused viaduct that's now part of the reserve.




I remember the painful birth of this place thirty-plus years ago. It was saved from redevelopment in 1991 and listed as a Site of Nature Conservation Importance, only for the owner, who wanted to build houses there, to send in the bulldozers at 6am on a Bank Holiday Saturday the following spring. Local protestors arrived within minutes, but it took took hours for the council to get an injunction, by which time a third of the five-acre site had been destroyed.

Ultimately, the developer didn't get his way, and it's now a lovely and very unusual place to wander. 



view of Clifton in the distance




Once down from the viaduct, we wandered up through Clay Bottom, joining Coombe Brook, a tributary of the River Frome, for part of the way.



jelly ear fungi



Much of this section of the walk took us through allotments, bright with foliage, late-blooming flowers and plastic. 



a piece of hoggin in situ



Our return route took us under the viaduct and back into Greenbank cemetery.


I was quite intrigued by this modest stone dating from 1982, propped up against - and partially obscuring - the older, grander one, especially since the surnames are all different. 


It was exhilarating to visit a couple of new places, and I'd like to say I'll try to keep it up once a month through the winter, but the season of mud will be setting in presently, so maybe I'll end up sticking (ha!) to ground I can be sure of. We'll see. 


Sunday, 3 April 2022

Fings ain't where they used to be, or A Kestrel for a King

I was chauffeuring Son the Elder to a roboteering event in Leicestershire yesterday, and as it wasn't far from Coventry where Son the Younger now works, we decided to meet up. I don't know that part of the country at all well, but as it happens my publishers, Ronnie and Dawn of Indigo Dreams, used to live in the next village, and gave me lots of suggestions for places to visit, from which we chose the Bosworth Battlefield trail. First, though, a battle with the car parking meter at Sutton Wharf, which was refusing to issue tickets.


On, then, along the Ashby canal for a short way - just far enough, in fact, to admire a very bold kestrel which passed quite close by us ... 



... and this piece of spalted wood which turned out to be not spalted at all, but faux-crackled with some sort of blackened vegetation ... 


... before turning up through Ambion wood to the Visitor Centre. Inexplicably, Son the Younger decided to rely on my largely fanciful grasp of history instead of the carefully curated exhibition, so after admiring the Earl Shilton stone coffin (Earl Shilton being a place, not a person), which was believed for many years to be that of King Richard III and which has Romano-British tool marks on its side ... 


... and the stocks ... 


... we decided to start the battlefield walk. Now, the problem with history is that it often happened a long time ago, and there's no one alive from 1485 to say with any precision just where Bosworth Field was. And so after more than 220 years of thinking you know exactly where it was, and just when you have got your marker stone set up ...
 

... some bright spark discovers the inconvenient truth that it wasn't there at all, and gets loads of plaudits, while you're left with a massive boulder marking the wrong spot altogether.

It's even worse when you've established the Heritage Centre in a 14th century tithe barn that's handily nearby, and stuck your flagpoles up with your Yorkist and Tudor flags ...


... and hell's teeth, even built your Richard III sundial with commemorative thrones. 


Now, after centuries of mistaken celebration, Ambion Hill has been returned to arable use. 



Down at Shenton Station we saw a diesel train advertising the rather optimistic destination of Scarborough. (It actually goes just a few miles up the track to Shackerstone.) 


We walked back towards Sutton Wharf along Shenton cutting, which is no longer in use.


A short detour past the turning to the canal takes you to what is currently believed to be the site of the battlefield, where, on 22nd August 1485, Henry Tudor's small rebel army defeated the much larger Royal army of King Richard III, with Richard hemmed in by marsh and cut down 'in the thickest press of his foes'. 


I think the historians might have the right location this time, as the reedmace in the far corner looks like spears coming into view.



Marsh marigold




Back at Sutton Wharf, we watched the kestrel which was still hunting and ate lunch outside in the sun. After a bit it started to snow. We vacated the seats by the cafe and watched the driver of a hire boat hurtle into view, scraping the boat along the concrete edge of the tow path. 


By now shift-working son was getting sleepy, so we headed back to robot land, and I read in the car till it was time to set off for home. Another small jaunt in this time of pandemic. I'll take what I can get.