To Hetty Pegler's Tump and Selsley

Dru was off to release a few Inking Bitterns into the wilds of Gloucestershire and did I want to come too? I said I could spare a morning (with Ted in tow) and she agreed that was all it would take, so off we went.

First stop Thornbury, where Dru snapped up a copy of 'Biggles Gets His Men' in a charity shop, then Berkeley (where there are no bookshops but a soon-to-close newsagents and a pharmacy in the former pub), followed by the Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust at Slimbridge.
    
We also hoped to pop into the church with its graceful spire but it was locked.  The churchyard was interesting, though,  if swampy. In contrast to the elegance of the architecture, there were some very thuggish cherubs.  I suspect they are bouncers at the Pearly Gates.

Then it was off to Hetty Pegler's Tump, the Neolithic Long Barrow at Uley, just outside Dursley.  The mound is named after Hester, wife of the the 17th century owner of the field, who died in 1694.  

We took the scenic route to the tump, which led past a quarry in the wood.  

It was pretty rainy and the ground was sodden and slippy, but the colour and geometry of rock and trees made up for that.  

Back up on the road we found ourselves in cloud, but the skies were clearing from the west and by the time we reached the tump, the day was brightening.

Is it my imagination or is there an oval, Paul Klee-esque face staring out of the stone lintel?

The entrance being much smaller than the one at Stoney Littleton - or me possibly being rather fatter - I didn't attempt to squeeze through it, but this is what it looks like inside.  

View across to the River Severn

En route to Nailsworth to drop off some books in the Yellow-Lighted Bookshop, we saw a sign for Selsley, a small village outside Stroud with a remarkable Arts and Crafts Church, and as Dru had yet to visit it, we made a brief detour.  

Look, isn't it stunning, seen through the Lych Gate with attendant jackdaws?








The last of the great Cotswold wool churches. 

Selsey's chief treasure is its windows, which date from 1862 and are the only complete set designed by Morris, Marshall, Faulkner & Co.  

This is one of my favourites - another Ascension, like the mediaeval window at Fairford and the stone carving in Wells Cathedral.  

And this is the beautiful West window.

There were lots of lovely Arts and Crafts touches - the delicately carved screen around the Lady Chapel, the capitals on the (rather ugly marble) columns, the altarcloth and pulpit hanging, but I'm sticking with the windows for now. 

In the churchyard, some of the more modern headstones were reminiscent of those at Mells and Partrishow.  This one is engraved with a few lines from 'Parting' by Jorge Luis Borges.

Back at the car, Ted was twiddling his paws so we let him drive us home via Nailsworth and Wotton-under-Edge (whose bookshop, unfortunately, was closed), returning somewhat later than planned ... but what a cracking day out.     

On the Scarp

Dru and I went off on another business trip last weekend to see if we could persuade any local-ish independent bookshops to take our wares.  We were hoping for more success than the last time we tried in Clevedon.  In the meantime, I'd acquired a nifty grey portfolio with pockets to hold my packs (consisting of my poetry collection, Communion;  ordering information; a photocopied review; and a large postcard with contact details) rather than stuffing them haphazardly into my trusty brown bag.  I felt almost professional.

First stop, Sodding Chipbury (as it is affectionately known in these parts).  An inordinate number of gift shops but no book emporium.  Dru and I got the feeling that it was trying to slip under the radar and into the Cotswolds, but it would need A LOT MORE antiques shops to do that.  And at least some of those wonderful slate tiles like fish scales instead of ridged clay ones.

On then to Wotton-under Edge, stopping off en route at Hawkesbury Upton.  We liked the look of the Church there with its solid fortified tower but we couldn't get inside because it was locked.  Never mind, the churchyard was interesting.  I loved the grave above, with new life and the Shadow of Death.  Or rather Dru.  And the Morris Traveller looking oh so picturesque.  (There - in front of the church, cunningly disguising itself as a yew hedge.)

Joy of joys - a bookshop in Wotton (which, incidentally, is one of my favourite small towns in the area - a proper place with proper shops, the only blot on the landscape being the inevitable Tesco Express on the high street.  If I never get to move to Dartmoor, a cottage in Wotton would soften the blow a little).  Only the bookshop was shut for lunch from 1pm to 2pm.  We looked at our watches.  Five past one.  We would have to return later.  

Our next stop was Nailsworth, en route to which we passed more snowdrops, these as tall as wild daffodils.  We knew there was definitely a bookshop in this pleasant little town and yessssss, it was open.  The woman inside was very friendly.  She told us that Jenny Joseph lived locally and was a frequent visitor - definitely old enough now to wear purple, but in fact she generally dressed in tweed.  And she was interested in my poems except the shop owner, a man called Hereward Corbett, was in the sister shop (also called The Yellow-Lighted Bookshop)  in Tetbury and maybe we should go up there.  'He's very nice,' she added, as I lugged my still heavy portfolio back out to the car.

Tetbury had been on our list of places to visit anyway, so it was back into the Moggy and off south-east to Poshville.  Once there, one of the first things we saw, parked outside the ladies, was a four-wheel drive belonging to a window-cleaning business.  It was  emblazoned with the name 'Suty and Sweep', with the addition of a picture of a man in blackface.  Dru and I were affronted and appalled, and made a lot of sweeping generalisations about rich bigots in the countryside.

But the shop was lovely with wooden shelving and a squashy sofa to read on and no Costa Coffee outlet at the back, just more books.  Hereward was indeed very friendly and he took two of my packs, one for Tetbury and one for Nailsworth, and said he would display the postcard prominently, which was very kind of him.  (I reckon it was the commendation from Hugo Williams on the back cover that swung it.)  Unfortunately he didn't feel that there was a market for the books Dru had brought with her, which were all to do with Bristol.  Seems Tetbury isn't that local after all.

We had time to spare so we popped into the church, a 18th century rebuild on the site of an earlier mediaeval church.  It felt very light and airy inside, thanks to the large expanses of window and the incredibly slender steel coloumns clad in painted wood.  It had no darksome mystery, though. (I like darksome mystery.)

Outside, however, we saw this amazing gravestone, the lettering inlaid with moss as precisely as marquetry.  Can't quite believe it didn't have a helping hand from a member of the congregation.  Very beautiful.

Returning to the car park, we saw the owner of the offensive window-cleaning vehicle clambering back in, looking very cheerful.  He was black.

Back, then, to Wotton and the Cotswold Book Room, which was now open.  Again the woman behind the counter took a pack, although she said it was her sister who decided which books to stock and they didn't sell much poetry.  'Not even U A?' I asked, aware that the late, much lamented U A Fanthorpe had lived in the town.  'Oh, we do stock her,' the woman conceded.  'In fact, we sell a fair bit.'  I should think so too.

Then the drive home via Charfield and Winterbourne.  An altogether more successful day for me than the last time we ventured forth.  I'm really looking forward to when Dru has drawn her map of the three hares churches on and around Dartmoor - what a perfect excuse for more and rather longer jaunts in my favourite landscape,