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Bristol , United Kingdom
My fifth poetry collection, Learning Finity, will be published early in 2022 by Indigo Dreams. I am co-director of the Leaping Word Poetry Consultancy. https://theleapingword.com

Tuesday, 18 February 2020

Tail Feathers from Storm Dennis

The plan had been for Son the Younger and I to drive separately to his garage in Newport, leave his car there for servicing and head to Llantwit Major for a walk, but Storm Dennis put paid to that. It also nearly put paid to me when my windscreen wiper motor failed during a ferocious squall on the M4. It took me about five minutes to prise my hands from the steering wheel once I reached my destination.

The worst of the rain having passed, I ordered a new wiper motor from eBay, booked my car into the garage on Friday, and drove to Llandaff with Son the Younger giving the wipers a helping hand, as necessary, through the passenger window. We detoured around a few places from our past, and then visited the Cathedral. Unlike me, it was the first time StY had been back since his grandmother's funeral 14 years ago.


The Rossetti triptych


Sir William Mathew (d 1528) and his wife, Lady Janet/Jenet


The Celtic cross is the only surviving remnant of the first church built on the site in the 6th century. It was rediscovered by the then bishop of Llandaff in 1870, 'embedded in the back wall of the shed over the Dairy Well'. 


I really like the newly installed painting 'The Virgin of the Goldfinches' by Clive Hicks-Jenkins, though Son the Younger said it reminded him of 'The Green Lady', a copy of which used to hang in his great-aunt's house.


The font at Llandaff has had a chequered history. The one in service during the civil wars was appropriated as a trough for pigs by a local Puritan, who also set up a tavern in the Cathedral and penned his calves in the choir. The predecessor to this one, which was designed and sculpted in 1952 by Alan Durst, was destroyed by the parachute mine which caused such damage to the cathedral in 1941. 


We headed on to the newly revamped Welsh Folk Museum at St Fagan's, which neither of us had visited in years. (That's not what it's called any more, but old habits die hard.)
I was excited as they'd moved and rebuilt a mediaeval church, complete with wall paintings, since I'd last been, but first we stopped off at my favourite of all the buildings there, the Kennixton farmhouse from Llangennith on the Gower, which was built in 1610 and re-erected at St Fagan's in 1955.

Red paint to ward off evil spirits


I've always wanted a bed like this. Well, maybe I'm too old and arthritickal for one now but I would have loved one years ago. 


Outside it was raining again. We headed for the reconstructed Iron Age hut but the path was closed,  so we visited a couple of other places and then made for St Teilo's, upon the wall of which a robin was singing loudly. 


The exterior is amazing. You have to boggle at the feat of planning that involved numbering every stone so that it could be reassembled correctly, over a period of 20 years. 


Forty percent of the original wall paintings were discovered under plaster, and I'd been looking forward to seeing them in situ, since miraculously, they were able to be moved, but apparently they are in storage. Instead, the interior has been painted to recreate how it might have looked pre-Reformation. 


I can understand why the curators might have decided to do that, but I was left longing for the atmosphere and authenticity of St Cadoc's Church in nearby Llancarfan.

13th century font


Over a lunch of Welsh rarebit in the cafe above the hardware store, we studied the weather forecast. Another belt of rain was due to pass over the area at 3pm, so we decided on a quick skip around our other favourite buildings and a leisurely return on a more auspicious day.


Llawr-y-glyn smithy


One of the terraced cottages from Rhyd-y-car


The communal bread oven from Poplar Place, Georgetown


The cast-iron urinal from Llanwrtyd Wells

We still have three of these in Bristol, Grade II listed and no longer in use but still in situ.


I like the prefab from Gabalfa and wondered aloud if a modern version that complied with building regulations might be an affordable solution to the housing crisis, but the guide explained that a prefab takes the same amount of land as two three storey town houses. 


The library of Oakdale Workmen's Institute has exactly the same computer system as our local library when I was a kid. 


The toll house from the southern outskirts of Aberystwyth


Maestir school, complete with stove and canes 

A traditional slate fence, reminding me of Ernest Gimson's Cotswold stone slab fence at Kelmscott














Two minutes of the softest drizzle smudged the windscreen as I drove back through Almondsbury interchange and I flicked on the windscreen wipers more in hope than expectation. They managed just one curmudgeonly sweep, but that was enough to see me home in crystal-clear style. Roll on Friday. 







6 comments:

  1. Lovely visit. As it happens, I received a Fairport Convention album in the mail today so it's playing in the background as I browse. Seemed appropriate.

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    1. I thought of you; how you'd have liked all the old buildings.

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  2. Always so beautiful and educational, your writing and photographs.

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  3. Suddenly a pic from Aberystwyth! Did you really come all this way!? I would have served you tea with buttery scones and blackcurrant jam x

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    1. Ach, a building from Aberystwyth, yes, but transported brick by tile by brick to St Fagans, where I was.

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