Sunday, 20 May 2018

Looking for Thomas

I spent the last R*yal W*dding in the Forest of Dean with my mate, Jill. She gave me a commemorative plate to mark the occasion.





Jill's Way Up North these days, and I don't get days off very often anymore, so I contented myself with a strategic hour in a favourite place I hadn't visited in ages. 


I had a secondary motive. Thomas Chatterton's been hanging about in my head lately. I've been meaning to write something about him for years. Maybe it's time. 



You can see his house from the north side of the Church, though it's been moved since he was born there, to accommodate the horribly close dual carriageway. And there's only one wall of it left. 


Not long afterwards, the family moved even closer to the Church - just about where the traffic roundabout is. 


This grave belongs to a different, later Tom. 


There's a commemorative plaque to Chatterton in the South Transept. It's somewhat understated, unlike Thomas. 

Yes, he WAS one of ours, I'm afraid ... AND a poet ... 


Actually, the South Transept is one of my favourite parts of St Mary Redcliffe. Poor Joan Canynge is there, for a start. Having predeceased her husband, William, in 1467, she was popped into their prepared joint tomb, only for him to become a priest. 


He was buried nearby in 1474, in ecclesiastical garb.


Stood up in the afterlife. And far more embarrassingly than the unused blank half of a headstone you often see. 

Thomas Chatterton would have known all this, of course. He wrote a poem called The Storie of William Canynge in the guise of his invented mediaeval poet-priest, Thomas Rowley.


I was after visiting some old favourites of my own. I love a Memento Mori, I do. 




Also in the South Transept, having been moved since I last visited, are the mediaeval stone corbels which, having been replaced during restoration works on the North Porch in the 19th century, now reside indoors in retirement. 




No apologies to posting photos of the lot of them. They are fascinating to me, as it's so easy to see the real people who modelled for them, centuries ago. It's almost as if they're emerging from the stone. 



















They now join this poor chap who, in typical Bristol fashion, has been press-ganged into continuing service. 


I had some other favourites to visit. The stained glass windows in St John's Chapel, for a start.
The destruction of the mediaeval windows is always blamed locally on Cromwell's men during the Civil Wars, though chances are they incurred some damage earlier, during the Reformation. 

This window contains some fairly complete figures. 


I love this one the best, though. It looks like a jumble of fractured images, but was skilfully reassembled in horizontal bands by Joseph Bell in the 1890s. 



Look, here's another Thomas, I'd wager - Thomas Becket, who seems - well, really quite sanguine about beng murdered. 


This is far more recent, designed by Harry Stammer from 1960 - 1965. There's a Lady Chapel-full of it, though my favourite section, Eve and the Serpent, also seems to have incurred a bit of damage since I saw it last. I hope it gets repaired soon. 


Of course, you can't walk through the Church without marvelling at the vast spaces. 


It was built by Merchant Venturers to outdo all the other churches in the area in scale, and this is does, with the exception of the then St Augustine's Abbey (now Bristol Cathedral). 


I wish it was possible to get up among all those roof bosses for a closer look.


What purports to be Queen Elizabeth I as a ship's figurehead and a whalebone brought back from Newfoundland by John Cabot in 1497.


The rest of the Church - and there's a lot more - was going to have to wait for another visit. I had my mother's shopping to do, not to mention getting home in time to not watch The Magic Of the FA C*p Final. 


There was one thing left to revisit, however - an easy-to-miss bit of graffiti carved into the tomb of Philip Mede, a former Mayor of Bristol in the mid-fifteenth century, with an illegible date beneath it.  


Now who has initials like this? 


Thursday, 3 May 2018

Climbing Twmbarlwm

I've wanted to climb Twmbarlwm in South Wales for some time - ever since its distinctive outline, which you can see from many places on our side of the Severn, was pointed out to me. Ideally, I would have gone with Dru Marland, as it is deep in Dru Marland Country, but these days she's headed east on the Kennet and Avon and somewhere in the Vale of Pewsey, so I went with my boys and our dogs instead. (And fine companions they were.)

First, though, we made a return visit to Caerleon - not to follow the whole route we walked three weeks ago, but just to see if the bluebells that grow all over the hill fort on the ridge at the back of the town were out yet. 


This has been a difficult spring to predict, what with the effect of all that late snow, but in this, our timing was spot on. 



Great waves of bluebells rolling over the ramparts of the hill fort ...


... and so beautiful. 
But we had a mountain - or at least, a sizeable hill - to climb, so after three quarters of an hour or so we headed west to our starting point at Cwmcarn Visitor Centre. 


I have to say, it was hard going, but fortunately for me, there were plenty of reasons to pause and take photos. 








On the way up we bumped into David Hockney. (Not really.) 








It was getting really tough now. Luckily, there was a raven overhead, chiding me into keeping going.


Bilberries - or whinberries - and very shouty larks
Eventually we reached the outer ramparts of the hill fort, which - like the one at Caerleon - is believed to have been constructed between 500 and 150BC by the Silures, a fierce Celtic tribe ...


... and then - with much relief - the trig point on the summit.
Brean Down, Steep Holm and Flat Holm in the far distance


There's a rather prominent tump on top of Twmbarlwm. 


Its origin is something of a mystery. It might have been built by the Romans as a signal tower after they defeated the Silures in the area ... 


... or possibly by the Normans during the invasion of South Wales in 1070, as a temporary motte and bailey structure. 


A small shrine to another mother and grandmother reminded us of a Welsh nanna who might have been celebrating her 97th birthday at that very moment in whichever place she is now. (Another mystery.)


Too soon it was time to go. We took in the last of the views, over to the River Severn and the two Severn bridges in the distance ... 


... and Ted had a final puddle about.

Then it was all the way back down, far quicker, admittedly, than the ascent but - in my case - on jelly legs with toes crunched against the toecaps of my boots.


Loquacious raven alert 


Next time I might just take advantage of the car park near the summit, the existence of which we only realised once we were up there ... 


... because, in the words of Son the Younger, You've done it now, Mum