About Me

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Bristol , United Kingdom
Poet and poetry facilitator. Co-founder of the Leaping Word Poetry Consultancy, which provides advice for poets on writing, editing and publishing, as well as qualified counselling support for those exploring personal issues in their work - https://theleapingword.com. My sixth poetry collection, Love the Albatross, is now available from Indigo Dreams or directly from me.
Showing posts with label Cardiff. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cardiff. Show all posts

Friday, 27 June 2025

When we went to Gwent (and Cardiff)

Once again, it was the time of year when the Severn tunnel is closed for maintenance - very important - and whoever it is who runs the railways these days fails to put on an even half-decent replacement coach service between Cardiff and Bristol. Not wanting the Northerner to have to return home via Gloucester and, per chance, Swindon, I drove him to and from work on the days it was possible for me to do it - four in all.

Although eight hours is a long day out, I wanted to stay in Wales if I could, to reduce costs and my carbon footprint, but one day was forecast to be full of heavy rain and thunderstorms, and another over 
30°C, so on those days I made the two round trips, regretting my decision the second day when it took me two and a half hours to cover the 36 miles from home to his workplace on Newport Road in extreme heat. 

The other two days were hot but not oppressively so, so Cwtch and I pored over walk books and websites and found two places in nearby Gwent for us to visit.

First stop, the Sirhowy valley, in the next valley from where Son the Younger used to live, so full of familiar skylines. The outward leg of our circular walk started just south-west of Crosskeys and took us along a disused railtrack, the former signal box now seeing service as a toilet. 



high above the River Sirhowy


sycamore and whitethorn


foxglove


It's an easy walk through the woods, though given the number of little streams crossing the path, I imagine it must be muddy in places when it's not summer.

There were some quite steep steps to climb at the point where our route turned back on itself, which caused my knees to grumble a bit, but we made it. 


Cwmfelinfach


Returning along a higher path, there were some lovely views along the valley to where the Sirhowy meets the River Ebbw. I was thrilled to hear both a cuckoo and a curlew.


non-native fiddleneck


enough hemlock water dropwort to poison the entire population of the British Isles


one of many self-seeded alders lining the path


broad-leaved marsh orchid


marsh valerian

The worst bit of the walk was right at the end when our route took us down an extremely steep, stony path to our starting point, but again I managed to negotiate it without doing myself any damage. I think I might try the longer walk through Sirhowy Country Park next time, as it's definitely worth a revisit.

Our second destination in Gwent was Wentwood , formerly ancient woodland that was part of Chepstow Castle's hunting grounds and is now mostly conifer plantation (though the long and laborious job of replanting native species has started). I was following a walk I'd found online that would take me to the Curley Oak, reputed to be between five hundred and a thousand years old.

                                                   

distant view of England adrift across the Severn


Our route took us past not one but two Bronze Age round barrows in a truly lovely spot.




Fallow deer slots


The track through the woods was still quite muddy in places, despite the warm and (mainly) dry summer weather we've been having.


heath-spotted orchid


honeysuckle


yellow pimpernel

Our route to the oak relied heavily on waymark posts, rather than giving estimated distances between instructions, which was a shame as many of them were no longer in place. Much of the time I had to guess whether a path was the right one, and we did get a bit lost, but not in that trackless-middle-of-the-wildwood way; it was more 'well, I'm pretty sure the car park is back in that direction so I'll take this path for now and head left when I get a chance'. I made a few of my own waymarks for the return leg. 




Eventually - having been distracted by its fence and missed it altogether - we looped back around and reached the Curley Oak. I have to say, it looks rather older than five hundred years to me.



As is the custom with ancient trees, people had left little gifts for it, the most striking of which were limpet shells. I'd picked up a bit of blue pottery earlier on our route, so I left that.




I felt a bit of a pang standing there, as Curly was my father's old nickname and the name his grandchildren called him. I'd have liked to have learnt about this tree thirty years ago, when he was still strong and I could have walked to see it with him. But in any event, it was a stunning high point for a walk.

Since I was in the area with time to spare, I did stop off in Cardiff to visit another memorable tree, this one a London Plane near Roath Park that's in the process of eating a Victorian pillar box. 



And I also got to while away a couple of hours in a favourite spot in Llandaff, namely the wild bit of the graveyard in the Cathedral precinct. Even under the trees it was hot, though, so Cwtch and I headed down to the River Taff where there was a bit of a breeze.



Cwtch is still too scared of water to chase the ducks, thankfully.




It must have been during the 1980s that I last stood in this spot. Much water over the weir since then. 

Thursday, 25 July 2024

Castell Gwyn a Chastell Coch

The Severn tunnel still being closed, I made a couple more trips to South Wales last week, for the purpose of dropping The Northerner off at work and bringing him home not via Gloucester. Since it's always more fun staying and visiting than sitting in the queue for the Brynglas tunnels four times a day, I decided to visit a couple more castles.

The first was Castell Gwyn - the White Castle - up near Abergavenny, a massive edifice built during the 13th century on the site of an earlier, wooden structure, for the purpose of controlling the border between England and Wales. Like Chepstow Castle, it's a very intimidating building. 




Originally called Llantilio Castle, it got its current name in mediaeval times, possibly from the white rendering used on its stonework. It's still visible in patches today. 
 




the well



I'd been planning to do a short walk in the area around the castle, but I had a recurrence of the extensor tendonitis that bothered me last summer, and it was painful to walk even around the castle's curtain wall, so I headed back to Cardiff and Roath Park, where I limped around the lake on easier terrain. 



Meanwhile a pair of coots with their cootlings huffed and puffed disapprovingly at Cwtch the Collie as we passed. 


A fallen willow


The memorial to Captain Scott, who set sail on his voyage to the Antarctic from Cardiff in 1910


I worked out it must have been 42 years since I was last at Roath Park. I used to have a rowing boat down in Devon when I was a kid, so taking a turn around the lake back then was easy. 


Roath Brook




Since I'd been to Castell Gwyn, the next day I decided I should revisit Castell Coch - the Red Castle - just a few miles north of Cardiff. I'd been there rather more recently than Roath Lake: I think about 35 years ago.



Before you start getting ideas about the Red Wedding and 'Game of Thrones'-style mediaevalism, Castell Coch is something else altogether, namely, a 19th century dream of a castle, built from the ruins of one from the 13th century. It was commissioned by the same person who donated the land for Roath Park, namely, the Third Marquess of Bute, John Crichton-Stuart, and brought to reality by architect, William Burges.

Back in 1989, we hadn't been able to afford the entrance fee. This time I couldn't go in because I had Cwtch with me, but never mind, my foot was feeling better, having been iced several times in the hours since our visit to White Castle, and we went for a walk through Fforest Fawr instead.

It was a fairly steep climb up through trees, but the track was easy and the margins either side of it widened and filled with flowers. 



I especially liked this firework display of buddleia and agrimony.



This sculpture heralds a spot known locally as The Three Bears Cave, which is a bit weird as we all know they lived in a cottage. It's one of many remnants of iron mines in the area.


By now the forest was spotlit by the sun. We walked as far as the upper car park and then back along the side of the ridge.




An enormous oak


Everywhere there was evidence of iron mining.



The fluorescent purple undercarriage of a dor beetle


This year seems to be a great one for artist's conk 

There was still some time to pass before the return journey home, so after our walk at Castell Coch, Cwtch and I headed for Llandaff Cathedral, because I love it there and hadn't been since 2020. There was a school service on inside, so we didn't go in, but instead headed for the churchyard. 


Bishop's Steps


The ruined bell tower seen from the churchyard


Common Blue butterfly 


After a perambulation of the Cathedral, we made our way to the overgrown part of the churchyard, which is always a bit spooky. There are lots of yews here, apparently planted in the 1860s, though some of them look a lot older than that. 



A reminder that it's best to leave Chicken-of-the-Woods uneaten if growing on a poisonous tree, such as a yew.


Fallen headstone of Mabel Honey, died on 26th October 1898, aged 4 years and 8 months 



Emma Owens, died 1900, aged three



Ooh, and here's some proper kissing gates ... none of your galvanised steel here. 



Then it was time to pick up the Northerner and head home, with a fistful of magpie feathers and a farewell to Wales for the time being.