'Tis the season to be indulgent', as the old carol goes, and so I'm
posting an extract from 'Nanny 1897
– 1991 An Uncommon Woman', which was
written about my grandmother, Hilda Hill, by my uncle, Noel Hill, after her death.
In the early days we always went to my
father's parents' home for Christmas Day.
Nanny Hill, or Big Nanny as we called her, was a tall, rather elegant
kind of woman, in contrast to my mother's mother who was short and stocky with
a ramrod back, and who, as was appropriate, laboured under the title of Little
Nanny. Whilst Little Nanny was less well
endowed with culinary skills, Big Nanny was an excellent cook and as a devout
Anglo-Catholic had the additional advantage of having no inhibitions about
feasting at the appropriate time in the liturgical calendar. At Christmas time her table groaned with the
weight of her provisions, and it is not just the quantity that I recall. My father's forebears had been farmers and
Grampy Hill loved good food which Fanny Tutton, his wife, knew how to
provide. She was one of 16 children,
most of whom were girls. Her sisters
were called by names such as Rose and Polly and Nellie, and wore long frocks
and black bands around their throats.
Although my great-grandfather had been but a farm worker, all these
girls spoke well and knew how to conduct themselves with refinement, for the
Tuttons had had little option but to place them all in service as they reached
13 or 14 years of age, if only to free bedroom space for their burgeoning
family. When the girls married, however,
it was to boys appropriate to their original station in life. I have this abiding memory of my great-uncles
and -aunts – the men all stout Somerset yeomen speaking with broad accents in
which the sound of the letter 'z' supplants that of the 's', whilst their wives
all sounded like ladies of leisure and insisted that my name was pronounced
'Noelle' and not 'Nole'. The lives of
these most impressive ladies seemed to be dedicated to the fruitless task of
improving their menfolk.
We would arrive at Big Nanny's shortly before lunch (dinner). My father would take a glass with his parents
but Big Nanny would instruct Grampy not to offer Hilda the sherry since it
would be a waste. (Her teetotal
tendencies were viewed with approbation at my Little grandparents, with disdain
at the Bigger edition.) I need hardly
describe the Christmas dinner, except to refer to some of the little touches,
like the chestnut stuffing, the giblet gravy, the pudding flamed with brandy
and stuffed with silver thru'penny bits, and plated mince tart with clotted
cream. I will not dwell on the presents
after dinner, the carols we small children sang to the grown-ups – three or
four of us lined up with our backs to Big Nanny's larder door, our tummies full
and the grown-ups even fuller, and all of them trying to stay awake and show
proper appreciation of our discordant renderings of 'Away in a Manger' and
'Whilst Shepherds Watched', with my mother, the most alert for having
supplemented her meal with lemonade rather than more dissolute beverages,
acting as a prompter and mouthing every word as we sang.
I shall also pass over the tea, excepting perhaps to mention Big Nanny's
home-made blackcurrant jelly on freshly-made crusty bread with thick butter and
scald cream or the junkets lightly sprinkled with nutmeg, because I am
impatient to get to the supper, for on Christmas Day we stayed up for supper
and Big Nanny's were well worth staying up for.
Cold meats were at the core of the meal and extended well beyond the
remnants of the turkey. Big Nanny could
cook a 'fore spur' (pronounced 'forceburr', a West Country term for the foreleg
of a cured pig) so that it tasted better than York ham.
She made her own brawn (mixed cold meats in aspic), she pressed tongue
and salt beef and served it all with fried, mashed potatoes or bubble and
squeak, and her own pickled walnuts, onions and red cabbage, and salads like no
one else's, all shredded and dressed with her own dressing. And puddings and tarts made from bottled
fruit from the garden or delicious things called fritters, a bit like crêpes but better, with crisp batter all
around the edges. And it all came to an
end, and all because of mustard.
I must have been about nine years of age, by which time I had five brothers and
sisters. Grampy Hill would have been
'getting on in years', as they say, and whilst he dearly loved his
grandchildren, it was a bit thick having six of the little so-and-sos round
your backside all day. They never
stopped talking and fancy having to listen to them sing carols just after
dinner when a man ought to be having a nap.
He had tried to have a word with his son, Jack, and had said 'Now look
here, my zunner (he called anyone he liked 'my son', be they male or female,
only it always came out as 'my zunner') don't 'ee think five little 'uns is
enough?' but Jack hadn't listened and now they had this new baby, Mollie, and
he just didn't know how it was all going to end. Grampy just about survived the day; well, at
least until supper time.
Now to have proper sympathy with my grandfather you really should have met him,
but since you didn't, I should try to describe him. He was not very tall – perhaps 5'8", but
a well-made man of substantial girth and weighing in at about 16 stone. He had ginger hair fading to silver at the
sides and still had a good head of hair to the day he died. He boasted a large, ginger moustache that
prickled when he kissed you. His
complexion was ruddy, his eyes blue and his hands huge and horny. He was a carpenter by trade and could do wonders
with those hands, including measuring saw cuts by holding up his thumb, closing
one eye and estimating the required length.
He could also hold a piece of cheese in his palm and pare it with a
pocket knife, putting the cheese to his mouth on the knife blade, to Big
Nanny's everlasting shame and disgust.
He drank cider from a huge mug, slurped as he drank it and smacked his
lips with relish at anything that pleased his palate. I always picture him dressed in a light brown
pair of dungarees, the kind with bib and braces, over a collarless shirt with
sleeves rolled up to his elbows, although on Christmas Day his discomfiture
with his numerous grandchildren was compounded by the stiff white collar and
suit Big Nanny insisted he wore.
Like so many men of his era and age, Grampy Hill was a creature of habit who
viewed with disfavour any attempt to change his ways. Big Nanny was the proud possessor of a rather
fine mahogany, Regency, twin-pedestal dining table which, with leaf in,
accommodated us all for supper. Grampy
had an equally fine, spoke-backed oak carver which was his chair at its head,
and although it did not match the table, he defied anyone to say so. On this fatal Christmas Day, because of the
growing number of Jack and Hilda's children, the beloved chair was removed by
Big Nanny and a bench introduced. Grampy
Hill was banished to the settle along the long wall of the dining room. The settle was rather low, Grampy's tummy was
rather large, the kids had been getting on his nerves since teatime and his
face was purple, his countenance dejected.
Big Nanny was on her feet organising us all (she organised everything)
when Grampy disappeared beneath the table.
Big Nanny adjusted her spectacles (she did not use a lorgnette, but Big
Nanny could make the most ordinary pair of spectacles look like one) and in her
haughty and refined voice proclaimed 'Tom, what on earth are you doing?' We had already detected Grampy-like grunts
from between the claw-footed pedestals of the table and then one of my
grandfather's huge hands appeared above the sparkling white tablecloth and
dripped freshly-made Colman's English mustard upon it and a voice from below
deck thundered 'Mustard! Shit!' My
grandfather had dropped the rather oversized mustard pot beneath the table,
failed to recover it by groping whilst seated, had slid beneath the table and
put his fingers straight into the mustard.
We were never asked for Christmas again.
Lest you think the slightest evil of my paternal grandparents, let me just add
that they were the very salt of the earth.
They were pillars of their parish church where my grandfather served for
years as a sidesman. My grandmother was
a great seamstress and would darn clothes until there was more darn than
cloth. She did most of my mother's
mending, searched church sales for frocks for the girls, and was like a family
nurse in dispensing medicaments to us all if we had a cold or a cough. Amongst Big Nanny's potions was a cough
mixture called Syrup of Squills and Fox's Lung Tonic. It was quite pleasant to the taste and I
could usually muster a sufficiently harrowing cough to be invited to take a
teaspoonful of what I thought for years was syrup of squirrels and foxes'
lungs.
Without the support of their relations, I think my parents would have been
hard-pressed to rear their enormous flock.
I don't know what their financial input was, although it could only have
been modest, for both sets of grandparents were of humble means, but I did see
the gifts they lovingly bore to Douglas Road and I can see Grampy Hill now,
puffing in through the back gate on his bike with the two quarts of skim milk
he brought up for his grandchildren most days, and sometimes sprats caught by
his brother-in-law Joe at Clevedon, or a joint of meat he had purchased
cheaply, late on a Saturday night. I
also knew that despite the burden of his eldest son's brood, Tom and Fanny Hill
helped another family in their Church all through the Great Depression when the
breadwinner fell out of work.
This good man died in agony with cancer of the bowel, but as I walked away from
his house a day or so later, a perfect stranger asked me whether I was Tom
Hill's grandson, and when I said I was, he said, 'If you grow up half as good
as he was, you'll be alright, my son'. I
thanked him and walked on, only to be accosted by another stranger who said
almost precisely the same thing.
They say that I look like him and even more like his brother who died not long
after I was born. At the age of 23 I
called on a farmer in Gloucestershire called Ford. As I walked towards him, a look of
apprehension crossed his face and he said, 'Don't say anything – your name is
Hill, isn't it?' When I agreed, he said
'Lord bless me, you nearly scared me to death, I thought old Billie Hill was
walking through my gate and he's been dead for nigh on 20 years.' He was talking of my great-uncle, whom I had
never seen but who had farmed next to Ford before the latter moved to
Gloucestershire from Easton-in-Gordano in Somerset. It seems that I must have been the spitting
image of my great-uncle and quite like his brother, Grampy Hill. Would that I could be half as good a man as
my grandfather was.